Today was listed on the daily bulletin board as “Rock Art and Mud Crabs”. We woke in Doubtful Bay near Raft Point and saw the sun rise. As it was dark when we arrived last night it was the first opportunity to see where we had moored. It was our roughest night with the boat bumping all night.
Doubtful Bay was named by John Wickham in 1838 who was uncertain as to whether it was the entrance to Grey’s Glenelg River. We had an early start at six o’clock with a continental breakfast. At six thirty the majority of our party set out in “Homer” to motor around the bluff at Raft Point to a rocky and muddy beach. From here we walked across the mud and rocks and passed large boab trees to get to a steep rocky path which we climbed to get to the Wandjina art works These were very impressive and in good order with crocodiles, fish and spirit men. The Wandjinas were the cloud spirits believed to be strongly linked to the weather. The heads on the rock art had no mouths and it is said that it won’t rain all the time - if they had mouths the water would run free incessantly.
Whilst Henk and I were looking at the art work Cathy, Harry and Mum stayed on “Homer” and did a spot of fishing. They didn’t catch any and returned to “Odyssey” after inspecting the “Orion” a 110 five star passenger liner also moored in Doubtful Harbour. Their passengers were being ferried by zodiacs to the beach when we were returning to “Homer”. Watching the “Orion’s” passengers perched on the side of the zodiacs and then having to jump off the side into the water to get to the beach confirmed we had made the right decision in choosing “Odyssey”. “Homer” is very easy to get on and off “Odyssey” and when we are at a gorge or on a beach the steps at the front of the tender also makes it very easy.
When we were climbing to the rock art we met a group of about eight on their way down. They were in a much smaller vessel which was privately owned. The men on the boat said that they had left four crab pots overnight and when they retrieved them only one pot was left with the rest being taken by crocodiles. Our crew, Matt and Mark suggest that the crab pots should only be left in the water for approximately fifteen to thirty minutes to protect them against the crocs.
We returned from “Homer” to “Odyssey” at about eight forty-five and a cooked breakfast was waiting for us. We then left Raft Point and motored east to the mouth of tidally-affected Red Cone Creek. From here we all boarded “Homer” and made our way at a fast pace down the creek for approximately fifteen minutes passing extensive mangroves along the way until we reached a rocky ledge with high walls. Behind this ledge was a deep and wide freshwater pool fed by a waterfall called Ruby‘s Waterfall. Henk was one of the first to go into the cool pool and swim over to the waterfall. The excitement was to walk under the waterfall. Most of us went into the water and were pleased that we did.
After returning to “Odyssey” and having lunch we saw an eagle swoop down into the water and catch a large fish. He flew quite a distance with his prey before landing in far-off mangroves.
Henk and I and about eight others went on “Homer” to do some crabbing. Matt and Mark set about eight crab pots amongst the nearby mangroves before we arrived using the “Odyssey’s” tinny. The tinny took eight at a time and Henk went on the first reccy to see if there were any crabs in the pots. They came back with five mud crabs. Then it was my turn. By this time the tide was going out very quickly and the pots were almost irretrievable as the tinny had trouble with the low tide. Some of the pots were left behind and when we picked up the others they were mostly too small and were thrown back into the water. After we returned to “Odyssey” Matt and Mark went to other nearby mangroves and set some more crab pots and caught some more. They were cooked by our chef, Amber, and we had drinks and freshly cooked crab on the bow whilst the sun set and the near-full moon came up over the mangroves. It was a magical evening. A two and a half metre crocodile kept close company with us for about an hour. Mum was in her element having crab claw and a beer. A delicious baked pork dinner followed.
There is now only two full days to go before we return to Broome on Sunday morning. We are having such a lovely time. Each day is filled with wonderful things to see and do.
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